Country info
Alcohol
Many a tourist has enjoyed an icy-cold draft beer on a hot summer’s day in Kyiv simply because the soft drinks are often lukewarm - but probably very few have regretted it. Ukrainian beer (pivo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. But guests should beware offers of homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. And whether it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest ‘cheers’ (budmo) will do for a foreigner.
Borders
Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania and Russia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers do not need a visa to enter Hungary, Poland or Romania. Visas are required for Belarus, Moldova and Russia and can’t be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Kyiv (see Officials).
Communism
The USSR fell in 1991, but the the effects of over 70 years of Communist rule are still felt and seen in Ukraine Kyiv’s Lenin statue is not large but keeps watch over Bessarabska Square - and believe it or not, it was named the world’s best monument at a 1939 international art exhibition in New York. At the other end of Khreschatyk, a large monument commemorating the reunion of Ukraine and Russia stands in a park. Post-war communist architecture abounds in Ukraine’s capital, from the unforgivingly imposing Foreign Ministry building to the ‘wedding-cake’ Ukrainian House - today a cultural centre but formerly the Lenin Museum.
Disabled travellers
Kyiv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. The central train station does have lifts for the platforms, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establisment in question specifically caters to disabled guests.
Driving in Kyiv
Most westerners will find driving along Khrescatyk and several other main throughfares relatively easy. The problem kick in when you try to drive anywhere outside of these well-surfaced and signposted routes.The condition of most roads in Ukraine is basicaly wretched, especially afer the winter thaw. Sometimes the mosaic of potholes almost evokes feelings of aesthetic admiration among drivers, although your car - shook to bits - will undoubtedly disagree. At least most holes do get repaired, eventually...
Another problem is the decrepit traffic lights. They are not at all that bright, and sometimes it is dificult to tell which light is actually lit and which just has the sun shining on it to make it appear lit. Road markings - especially the central line separating one side of road from the other - can often be missing. In this case you should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where the line is. Just make sure that others drivers understand your intentions.
Parking is dificult in the city centre, althought it became considerably easier recently when the sidewalks were opened to cars. Certain streets are patrolled by uniformed parking officials who collect payment (prices start at 2Hr per hour) and who will help you to get out of your parking space and back into to the heavy traffic flow.
According to Ukrainian law foreign drivers should carry an International Driving Licence in addition to the licence from their home country. You will need to acquire such a licence in your country of origin. As with just above everywhere in the world, the policy will stop you for any sign of illegal or dangerous driving. Traffic cops have been legally deprived of their traditional right to impose on-the-spot fines, however, and can now only write you a ticket and send the case to court. In some cases a 'donation' can save a lot of time and trouble, but there is currently a highly public campaign going on to eliminate this type of behavior. Meantime significant increases in trafic fines are imminent.
Electricity
Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Kyiv, so bring your own.
Floors
Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first floor and so one.
Language
The country’s official language is Ukrainian, but in practice the situation is much more complex. In the 2001 census more than 85% of ethnic Ukrainians declared Ukrainian as their mother tongue. This is certainly an encouraging sign, but the average foreigner on the streets of Kyiv won’t be hearing the Ukrainian language anywhere near that often. Since independence in 1991, it has become much more popular and widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian truly predominant.
Money
The national currency is the hryvnia (hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25 and 50 kopeck coins. If you’re lucky, you may become the proud owner of the recently-issued and still rare 1hr coin. You’ll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. ATMs have become plentiful in Kyiv, and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it.
Roads
Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads and 130 on highways. A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine.Safety
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away, but you shouldn’t worry about this alone making you the target of criminal behaviour. Kyiv is in fact a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of money could cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so hands in pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, sometimes from the police. By the way, it’s a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.
Smoking
You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesn’t seem strong enough. On the other hand, smokers will enjoy the ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by every corner babushka and kiosk.
Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it.
Toilets
Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Kyiv. The best ones can be found at the central train station and in underground shopping centres. The other end of the spectrum rears its ugly head at parks, beaches and some high-traffic McDonald’s locations. Many public toilets charge up to 50 kopecks or so.
Tipping
Kyiv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask.
Water
Drinking water straight from the tap in Kyiv is neither tasty nor healthy and should be avoided. Instead use one of the city’s many public wells, or go one step better and spend a few hryvnias on bottled water from a shop.
Taxis
In Ukraine every car is a potential taxi - just hold your arm out on any street if you don’t believe us. Unmarked taxis are considered safe and are much cheaper than marked ones. In any case most taxis don’t have meters, so you’ll likely have to agree on a price with your driver. Foreigners are fighting an uphill battle in getting a fair price, but it never hurts to try. Settle on the amount before getting in to avoid giving the impression of having bottomless pockets. Taxis can also be ordered by phone.
DeltaTaxi tel. 465 19 19.
EvroTaxi tel. 249 40 40.
Shanson Taxi tel. 548 28 28.
Taxi 059 tel. 059
Taxi Partner tel. 247 00 00.
Metro
Kyiv